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Copley Square, Ken's Deli~ By Doug Holder

12/30/2015

12 Comments

 
Copley Square—Midnight—Slipped into Ken’s Deli. A Jackie Gleasonish fat man –the manager—stationed by the rotisserie chickens—a chorus line of spread legs, melting flesh, wings posturing on their plump hips—wondering which one would I choose. A dishwasher emerged, effeminate man, dirty apron, a cigarette in a holder, long expressive hands, wearing an eye patch. Drag Queens in the men’s room. At the counter on the first floor—a waitress—not long on patience piped “What’s it going to be, hon.” Actors off from a gig at the Colonial, gesturing to each other dramatically at the booths—a few years before—I was a dishwasher here. I was chosen from a lineup of world-weary men: “You, you and you,” at 5PM—peering at all this through stacks of dishes—all this would be mine one day—a late night character—laughing over corn beef and chopped liver on dark rye—with poets and writers, after a day of writing—joking like Dorothy Parker, my round table…my Algonquin Hotel. The men I worked with I knew would reappear again—even then taking mental notes—trying to construct a narrative of the chaos of my life.

*Originally published in Constellations Magazine (December 2015)
​


Author Bio:

Doug holder is the founder of the Ibbetson Street Press, and the arts/editor for The Somerville Times. His work has appeared in Rattle, The Boston Globe, Poetica, Buckle, Word Riot and many others. He teaches writing at Bunker Hill Community College and Endicott College in the Boston area.
12 Comments
STANLEY ZIMMERMAN
10/11/2018 10:09:22 pm

Worked at WurliTzer store on Boylston, late 60's, having just returned
from active Navy service and Viet Nam. Frequented Ken's at Copley,
across from Trinity church. Great for lunch, early evening, and late night. Had unique counters good for discussion groups Learned the
Gailbraith theory of economics during those early evening discussion sessions. Didn't change my Milton Friedman thinking. Food was always good, had many lunches there, and late nite after bar delicious sandwiches. Am told it closed due to waitreses joining a union. Owners stated, if they organized, the place would be closed. They organized, it closed. The real estate was worth more than the restaurant. It was a great loss to the area, and to this faithful customer. Was in my late 20's, now late 70's, yet fondly remeber that wonderful eatery. Cest la vie.

Reply
Pam Small
11/8/2018 03:33:15 am

I, too, fondly remember Ken's on Copley. From boarding school in Wellesley Hills, it was a straight shot in by car or bus on RT. 9 to Huntington Ave. and the wonders of the Back Bay area, Museum of Art, Library, Newbury Street upscale shops (I couldn't afford) but perused anyway. Oh and Ken's because of which my lifelong battle with weight began--the source of bagels and luscious fresh cream cheese, the most succulent cheese blintzes, and to-die-for cheesecake that melted on your toungue before your tastebuds even knew what hit them--pure decadence that has propelled me on a 50+ year search everywhere I have lived to find any comparable deli fare. Sadly, nothing has ever come close to that iconic taste. Matzo Ball, & Chicken Soups, sandwiches that were a meal by themselves, and a juicy Kosher dill that made your mouth pucker long after your last bite! My mother used to drive us to Boston to see the latest plays and musicals, and we would stay at the Parker House. After the show, a trip to Ken's was my favorite reward for sitting quietly through many plays I didn't like. Then, the next day,we made the rounds to Old Granary Burial Ground (as it was called then), Paul Revere's Home, Old Ironsides, Haymarket Square, Faneuil Hall, The Commons, and Beacon Hill. I found life in Maine boring after all that. But every few years, we went to Boston during the Christmas Season, and we were mesmerized by the animated displays in the windows of many of the big stores. A trip into stores for a new winter coat or snowsuit (when very young) left me hot and glassy-eyed, only to be buffeted by the cold wind and often snow when we left. Mother always had to drag us through Bonwitt-Tellers to see all the latest fashions, while haughty saleswomen nervously eyed us, as if daring us to touch the hem of something nearby so they could pounce on us before our grubby little hands did any damage. Oh, the memories are rich, but richest of all was the heavenly treats at Ken's that make my mouth water to this day. RIP, Ken's Deli!

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Lynn Small
4/30/2024 08:07:28 am

Hi Pam! I’d read your comment & quite enjoyed it &, wow, your name!?! I’ve a cousin Pamela, who moved from hereabouts to Oklahoma decades ago… ‘Anyways’, I loved Ken’s! Went there as a teen through my late ‘20s [when I moved to CA]. I’d seen Ken’s at all hours, in all my different stages of young life. Teenager > neighborhood resident<>nearby employee<>rocker+. Loved it & miss it terribly. Thanks for the fun comment! I wish you well!

kens at copley
11/9/2022 01:06:16 pm

it closed because of bankrupcy. over-extended kens franchise (4 places)and borrowed money during high interest rates time. even if wait staff organized there were always people who needed jobs, so there was a large pool of scabs.

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Michael
12/1/2020 10:10:15 am

I also recall Ken's in the early 70s. It was my goto place after the bars closed. I found this thread as a result of googling Ken's at Copley. Just wondered if it still existed. Apparently not. It's been 27 years since I've been to Boston. I wouldn't reignite recognize it now.

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Lynn Small
4/30/2024 08:13:39 am

Hi. I’m so happy to have found this wee article of Ken’s! Loved that place! I frequented there from early ‘70s through mid ‘80s. I’d go there after clubs too ~ Rat or Storyville or maybe Exeter Theatre or Shubert or the years I lived & worked nearby, I was there 4+ times a week, at varying hours. Man, if those walls could talk! I’d only stopped as I moved to CA. Just writing to say thanks for your comment, as brought back much.

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Ws Biederman
10/29/2021 10:03:06 pm

I too worked at kens in Copley square back in the 70s around the time that the windows were popping out of the Hancock building
I remember Ken well and his partner I believe was George (not sure though) he and I used to go up to the second or third floor locked room and load up on candy bars and cigarettes to stock the front counter. I even did some electrical work for his kids in the adjacent building that they had an apartment I guess he and Ken owned both buildings
I worked the front door for a time late nite
And I fell in love with the GIRL of my dreams
But before I could make my move ,one of the busboys from the second floor came down and told me that “the girl of my dreams was actually the boy of his dreams!!”
Hey that was Kens at 2 am all the time
We were the AFTER place after the shows after the clubs after the games everyone ended up at Kens
Fond memories

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Mitch link
12/27/2023 04:04:42 am

George was Ken’s brother-in-law. They opened a restaurant next door and underground called “Ken’s, By George.” Great food, and cocktail lounge, with a big bar, happy hour and great piano music. Melissa Etheridge was briefly one of the lounge singers while she was studying at Berkeley School of Music. I just about lived there from ’80 to ’82. Ken’s Deli was a great place. Wonderful memories.

Reply
Lynn Small
4/30/2024 08:27:51 am

You worked at Ken’s!!! How cool! I loved that place! I was there all kinds of hours, 4+ a week. For a time I was night auditor at Copley Plaza, so I or we were the wackadoodles getting full on dinners at 7:30am or so. I remember getting drinks too, whiskey sours to be exact, & now I don’t know how we/our server went about it. They always seemed to love us, as we were the happy ones at the end of our workday, not on our way to work. ‘erm, that & we always tipped well. Thinking back, at other times I remember likely being nearly incoherent after a gig ~ I frequented clubs & some theatre, as performer &/or audience ~ not due to drugs, but sheer exhaustion as I was working numerous jobs & crazy long hours, & I loved the coffee & the joking sympathy from all staff. I’d moved to CA & was so sad to hear of Ken’s demise. The best! p.s.: I had friends from NYC who loved Ken’s, even saying was better than any of the for deli’s ~ the food & the ambience! &!& while at Copley Plaza, I & other staff suggested Ken’s to many guests. Along with others whose names I can’t recall, I specifically recall Jean Stapleton, Leontyne Price, Gilda Radner, all thanking me & saying they loved it.

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Tom Hickey
7/12/2022 03:15:58 pm

In 1975 I worked the 3-11 p.m. shift at area hospitals while waiting for the Peace Corps to process me in. It was great shift to work because I could sleep in, get up in time to shop the bookstores on Copley St, take the "T" to work, and then go to Ken's before the last train home. Loved the ground beef blintzes with hot gravy and a beer.

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Donna
12/25/2024 10:09:48 pm

I remember their version of a Monte Cristo sandwich!
I have to make my own if I want one.
I think they used 3 slices of Pepperidge Farms thin white sandwich bread to make a club sandwich. It had slices of turkey, ham and cheese. They would deep fry it and then cut into fours.
Then toss a bunch of french fries in the middle and serve with a side of cranberry sauce. I also remember the people that dressed up to see The Rocky Horror Show would be there after the midnight show.
They had lots of umbrellas with them if they were seated in the front rows. I saw Vicki Sue Robinson at Paul’s Mall next door in the early 70’s too. My kids don’t know what nightlife is. They don’t have fun like we did.

Reply
Lionel Payne
4/8/2025 07:24:38 am

Hello Everyone :)

I have a vivid memory of Ken's At Copley. Worked there from '74 - '80. Started there (am shift) at age 14 washing Dishes. Seeing all the pastries, pies, that famous " Chocolate Deluxe Cake" on their way to the very busy deli, so mesmerizing.
Through the years, working as a bus boy, working with those wonderful, hardworking waitresses, I grew up fast.
High respects to them. 😊
Just being there, played a very important part of being intellectual, respectful to others, always kind to others.
I looked forward to being a part of Ken's. The morning after the Blizzard of '78, I walked more than 6 miles from Dorchester, just to be there to help.

Seeing the long lines of customers waiting to be seated, was a sight to see.
Ken and George were kind to me. I was very comfortable with the workplace atmosphere.

To this day, at 66, my high respects and many thanks to those in the workforce. Helping others.

Long Live memories of Ken's At Copley

Kindness rules 😊

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